Showing posts with label chernobyl. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chernobyl. Show all posts

Sunday, 1 February 2026

The STALKER Trilogy: Eurojank or Eurowine

 
Let's have a look at STALKER: Shadow of Chornobyl, a spooky action-adventure from 2007. In its day STALKER was an ambitious, atmospheric adventure game that rewarded exploration and experimentation. It was scary, brutally hard, often frustrating. It looked great, it had artificially intelligent non-player characters, and at the time it felt like the future of gaming.
 
 
In fact for several years STALKER actually was the future of gaming. It was announced back in 2002, with release planned for 2004, but despite a steady flow of teaser videos development dragged on. Circa 2006 there were rumours that the publishers were going to dismiss the original developers and hand the project over to a separate team, but eventually the game came out in March 2007. To the developers' credit it still felt like the future of gaming, despite being five years old at that point.
 
Sadly STALKER was not the future of gaming. The actual future of gaming was Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare, which came out a few months later. Modern Warfare was the direct antithesis of STALKER. It was a story-driven action game where the action sequences were essentially interactive cutscenes. The player had very little freedom of movement and the single-player campaign had essentially no replay value, which explains why the game is mostly remembered today for its multiplayer component.
 

It's easy to crap all over Modern Warfare. The story was engaging, at times subversive, and it only really became ridiculous in the sequels. The franchise as a whole went on to become synonymous with the process of squeezing the juice out of an intellectual property until it was a dried-up husk and all the developers were dried-up husks, but it didn't have to be that way.
 
I don't want to disparage Modern Warfare's juice. It had good juice. Juice that worked. Juice that was palatable to a wide audience. Juice that ran well on a modest PC. Juice that was also released for the PlayStation 3 and Xbox 360, whereas STALKER was PC-only.
 
After all these years I still remember.
 
STALKER required a top PC, and even then it was plagued with technical problems. For every drop of good juice there was a drop of bad juice. And even when it worked the game had a niche appeal. The difficulty level was off-putting. Dying a lot in unfair ways is realistic, but people play video games to get away from real life.
 
It was obvious that the developers had, at one point, been ordered to get the game out of the door immediately, because the final levels were just linear shooting gauntlets. Furthermore the storyline was told with blocks of text that were poorly-translated from Ukrainian. At times STALKER bordered on Eurojank, at other times it was the dictionary definition of Eurojank, sometimes it was Eurowine. Sometimes its juice was wine, and sometimes its juice was just juice.
 
Some games cleverly weave the story into the flow of gameplay. STALKER says no.
 
Hovering over STALKER is the spectre of what might have been. The game had a famously lengthy development process that left behind a tonne of unimplemented ideas, but for every alternative world where the development team's original plans came to fruition there is another world where the distributors pulled the plug, leaving us with nothing at all. The spectre hovers beyond our reach, intangible. We can study it, but all attempts to embrace it have been met with failure.
 
Why am I writing about STALKER? I recently built a new PC so that I could run Windows 11. After installing Steam I realised I had three new games. Enhanced editions of the STALKER trilogy, given away for free by the publishers for people who owned the original games. I decided to see how well Shadow of Chornobyl had aged. As well as Gillian Anderson, or as badly as cheese?
 
 
The answer is Gillian Anderson, but a kind of wonky Gillian Anderson. Not a sentence I ever thought I would write, but here we are. Everybody knows the story of STALKER. Circa the turn of the millennium Ukrainian development studio GSC Game World had a big hit with Cossacks: European Wars, a top-down strategy wargame. But first person shooters were hot, so they decided that their next project would be a sci-fi shooting game called Oblivion Lost, starring an army man with a minigun.
 
After building a simple engine the team realised that the end result was boring, so circa 2002 they decided to create something more ambitious, something more mythic. In the meantime GSC kept the money coming in with a mixture of budget titles (including Codename: Outbreak, which used elements of the cancelled Oblivion Lost) and sequels of Cossacks.
 
 
 
On the back of an effective pitch the team arranged an international publishing deal with THQ, at which point the problems started. The pitch sold a game that would be ambitious even today. After going on a tour of Chernobyl and Pripyat the team decided to make an open-world survival action game set in the exclusion zone surrounding the Chernobyl nuclear power plant, initially reusing the Oblivion Lost name.
 
For the benefit of younger readers, one of Chernobyl's nuclear reactors suffered a major accident in 1986, spewing radioactive waste into the environment. The cloud of radioactivity spread over Sweden and as far west as Wales. The damaged reactor was eventually covered in a huge metal shroud, while the rest of the plant continued to generate electricity.
 
The surrounding area became too radioactive for long-term habitation, so the town of Pripyat - which had been purpose-built to house the families of plant workers - was evacuated. The nearby town of Chernobyl was also evacuated, although to this day it still houses a few people who work at the plant.
 
 
The game was going to take place in a series of huge maps. The player would have to eat and sleep, and carefully avoid environmental hazards as they moved from place to place. In this universe, which drew inspiration from the look of Andrei Tarkovsky's Stalker and the setting of the Strugatsky brothers' Roadside Picnic, a second Chernobyl disaster in 2006 had rewritten the rules of physics, littering the area around the reactor with radioactive, gravitational, pyrokinetic, and chemical anomalies that spawned mysterious, occasionally beneficial artefacts, which fetched a high price in the outside world.
 
Into this environment scavengers, trespassers, adventurers, loners, killers, explorers, and robbers were willing to risk their lives for a bit of cash. And perhaps even enlightenment, because there were rumours that the reactor might have the power to grant wishes.
 
The player would share the game world with deadly anomalies, dangerous mutants, anarchists and bandits, and also artificially intelligent bands of loners powered by GSC's custom-made A-Life engine. The other inhabitants of STALKER's world would traverse the environment independently, getting into fights that the player could either participate in or avoid. The original pitch mooted the possibility that there would be radiant quests, and that the non-player characters were smart enough to complete the game without the player's intervention.
 
 
The game would also track the passage of time through dawn, day, dusk, and night, with changing weather and occasional radioactive storms. The player could duck into shelter, and perhaps trade artefacts for some food or ammunition. Did I mention that STALKER is technically an acronym? I think I alluded to it a couple of paragraphs up the page. I'm not typing S.T.A.L.K.E.R. more than once, no sir.
 
All of this was was heady stuff. Heady and also powerfully appealing. Circa 2003 the concept came across as a blend of the big open maps and realistic gunplay of Operation Flashpoint with the character interaction of The Elder Scrolls III: Morrowind, in an interesting and unusual setting.
 
This was also a time when the stereotypically grey, post-Soviet look of Eastern Europe was incredibly hip in the West. A year later the realistically drab City 17 of Half-Life 2 felt fresh and new, at a time when the audience was getting bored with sci-fi and fantasy games, and STALKER took the grimness up a notch.
 
 
Even today there isn't much like the STALKER games. Fallout 4 and The Outer Worlds are similar, but they're set in a parallel universe and the far future respectively, not the world after tomorrow. DayZ closely resembles STALKER, but it doesn't have much of a story, and The Long Dark doesn't have artificially intelligent NPCs. Or lovingly detailed recreations of the Russian AS VAL suppressed sniper rifle.
 
And of course all of those games were fifteen years or so in the future back in the early 2000s. Circa 2003, 2004 or so the only similar games that mixed exploration and action were Trespasser, which was already fading into legend, and Far Cry, which was essentially a corridor shooter but with incredibly large corridors and also very narrow corridors.
 
STALKER's development went through three stages. At first the team struggled to build a new engine, because contemporary Unreal and Id Tech were no good at huge outdoors maps. The X-Ray Engine ended up with dynamic shadows, ragdoll physics, simulated ballistics, wide open levels with integral indoors sections, and even at one point driveable vehicles, in addition to the A-life artificially intelligence engine.
 
Once that was finished the team found themselves with an enormous, amorphous mess of a game. Several of the levels had been designed in the expectation that the player would traverse them in cars, but the end result was a bunch of large, mostly empty driving maps that just filled up space. Eventually THQ got sick of the process and sent a chap called Dean Sharpe to get something out of the door as quickly as possible, as described in this classic Eurogamer article.
 

 
With Sharpe in place the team cut and cut and cut again, then assembled what they had left into a coherent story, at which point THQ paid for some admittedly quite nice albeit generic cutscenes. The game's large blocks of text largely came about because the storyline wasn't finished until near release, leaving no time for fully-voiced dialogue or in-game cutscenes. In March 2007 the game was released to good-but-not great reviews, but the sales figures were surprisingly strong for a PC-only title.
 
I like to think of STALKER as a spiritual brother of Half-Life 2, Doom 3, and Far Cry, albeit that it was released a few years later. Those three games came out in 2004, at a time when games publishers seemed to be losing confidence in the PC as a major gaming platform. Nonetheless they were at least initially PC-only, and their technically advanced engines felt like a collective vote of confidence in the PC. To the great relief of PC gamers they were big commercial hits. Half-Life 2 is still regarded as one of the best video games ever made.
 
Eventually the three games were ported to games consoles, in one form or another, but STALKER remained PC-only for over a decade. It went on to sell over two million copies by 2009 and has presumably sold more in the years that followed. I have no idea if it made a profit. I waited a couple of years and picked it up in 2009 as a budget re-release:
 

I had completely forgotten that there was a multiplayer mode. The game had a number of bugs, some of which were dealt with by a series of patches released in 2007 and 2008. Perhaps because I was patient I never experienced any truly game-stopping problems, and the physical release worked on Windows XP and Windows 10, although eventually I bought the three STALKER games digitally as a Steam bundle.
 
In 2008 GSC self-published a standalone prequel, Clear Sky, and in 2009 they published a semi-sequel, Call of Pripyat. I'll write about them later, but suffice it to say that Clear Sky was a curate's egg, while Pripyat was very good, although it didn't have the same air of creeping dread as the original game. The STALKER trilogy is odd, in the sense that the three games feel like variations on a theme, as if three different development teams had been given a design document and some shared resources, and had been told to make a game independently without talking to the other two teams.
 
In 2010 GSC Game World announced a full-blown sequel, STALKER 2, but in 2011 the company wound itself up and fired all its employees, amid rumours than the Ukrainian government - who were, back then, the bad guys - had tried to take over the company. In late 2013 and 2014 the government of Ukraine became so bad that the people of Ukraine threw them out, after which Russia sent in troops to occupy Crimea because we can't have nice things in this world.
 
Do you remember when games in the 2000s had pre-smartphone PDAs, even though they were set in the future?
 
Throughout the 2000s one of Ukraine's major tourist attractions was the exclusion zone around Chernobyl and Pripyat. The area also featured in Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare, where it was the setting for a memorable level involving snipers. In 2018 I concluded that if I wanted to see Pripyat the window of opportunity was closing, so I booked a tour, hence the photographs dotted throughout this article. I always wonder what happened to the tour operators. A few months after I came back the award-winning TV show Chernobyl brought the disaster into the public consciousness again, so presumably the tour people had a flood of work before the lights went out forever. I hope they banked their earnings while the money was still coming in.
 
Pripyat was unexpectedly beautiful in the October sunshine. The Chernobyl nuclear plant is much smaller than it appears in STALKER. The spookiest part of the trip was the town of Chernobyl, which was still used as a dormitory for plant workers. As a result it hadn't been overtaken by nature, but at night there were no streetlights, and yet here and there lights shone from occupied houses. Perhaps over time the inhabitants will evolve so that they no longer require eyes to see.
 
Russia launched a lightning invasion of Ukraine in 2022. The 1991 Gulf War and the 2003 invasion of Iraq were often derided in the West as media spectacle put on to entertain the population, viz Jean Baudrillard's The Gulf War Did Not Take Place. In contrast the invasion of Ukraine has taken three years and Russia has lost around a quarter of a million soldiers, in the process turning the eastern part of Ukraine into a muddy graveyard strewn with mines, wet wipes, and skulls.
 
Sadly Jean Baudrillard is no longer with us, but I imagine she he would argue that the invasion of Ukraine has sent a powerful message to the warmongering fat-cats of the United States and their complacent media-saturated population, or something. 
 

But still. GSC re-emerged circa 2014, and in 2018 the company announced that the development of STALKER 2 was back on track, although the Russian invasion of 2022 resulted in most of the development team relocating to Prague. At least one developer, a chap called Volodymyr Yezhov, on whom a character from Call of Pripyat was modelled, joined the armed forces and was killed in combat. The invasion is also the reason why the first game is now Shadow of Chornobyl and not Shadow of Chernobyl. I have to admit that I was sceptical STALKER 2 would ever appear, but it was eventually released in November 2024, to generally positive reviews and apparently strong sales. Why do I keep writing Chernobyl? Force of habit. I'm British. Splendid isolation.
 
But what of the original game? What's it like to play in 2025? Surprisingly good, is the answer. It has held up surprisingly well. Some elements are still, in 2025, ahead of the curve. A-Life, for example. The game takes place on a set of large maps, each of which contains a bunch of invisible checkpoints and waypoint nodes. Periodically groups of monsters, bandits, lone stalkers, and military types spawn at one of the waypoint nodes and make their way on foot from checkpoint to checkpoint. If they meet along the way a fight breaks out.
 
 
Or sometimes the groups greet each other and go on their way, and the NPCs end up relaxing by a fire, playing guitar. The A-life system runs all the time in the background, so it's possible for the player to meet someone early in the game in one map, and then find their corpse several hours later in a completely different map. Most games imitate a living world by drawing a bubble around the player and only animating things within the bubble, but STALKER runs the whole world in real time. It's more advanced and feels more real than for example The Outer Worlds, which came out more than a decade later.
 
The game fakes things a little bit - some of the distant gunfire and screams are just ambient background sounds - but there's enough actual AI for the game to feel like a genuinely living, breathing world. Occasionally I stumbled on some random corpses and wondering what had happened. Or there were some corpses mixed in with the bodies of mutant monsters. There must have been a desperate fight for survival, but it was somebody else's story. There is something both chilling and comforting about the sound of distant gunfire.
 

This does lead to one of the game's long-standing bugs, though. AI NPCs are programmed to spawn around campfires, where they sit and sing jolly tales of roaming the wilderness. But sometimes they spawn inside the actual fire, and die.


You'd think the developers would have made the NPCs fireproof. Or added some code so that fireplaces deal a different kind of fire damage to flame-spewing anomalies. But no. Gillian Anderson, and cheese.
 
When I first played the game back in 2009 I was expecting something akin to Operation Flashpoint, in which a single bullet is lethal. STALKER isn't quite that hardcore. It's a lot more bullet-spongy. Enemies generally die to a headshot, but it can take a lot of bullets to put some of the baddies out of action. Health-wise it's a kind of anti-Modern Warfare. Injuries cause wounds, which sap the player's strength unless they stop the bleeding with bandages. Then health slowly regenerates, but nowhere near quickly enough to help in a gunfight.
 
The game has a tutorial of sorts that demonstrates how the combat works. There's a little bit of stealth, but for the most part combat involves pumping the enemy full of bullets and then taking cover and reloading. The mutants are often incredibly frustrating, because they run around erratically, and it occasionally seems as if the baddies know where the player's crosshair is pointed, but replaying the game in 2025 I was still impressed with the combat AI.
 
Baddies often get stuck on walls or end up trapped in action loops, but when it works the AI is both merciless and fair. They're smart enough to double-back and creep up on the player, or hide just long enough that the player can't simply wait for them to pop out of cover. The baddies are also no more immune to monster attacks than the player, and it's incredibly satisfying to break up a bandit attack by dragging some dogs in their direction.
 

 
I was also impressed with the general flow of the story, although the writing is perfunctory. There's an effective escalation from an initial skirmish, to a series of increasingly large set-pieces, followed by a memorable dynamic shift where the player escapes from a hectic gunfight into a spooky cavern where the only sound is a squeaking light.
 

At that point the game plays its other card. It can do horror as well as action. In quick succession it introduces an invisible monster and a creature that can suck out the player's consciousness. The game is very good at horror dynamics. There are a couple of sequences where the player is asked to explore some ruined laboratories, expecting trouble, but nothing happens, but then suddenly a random piece of furniture flings itself at the player. Or, after infiltrating an otherwise-empty underground complex and flicking a switch, the player's radar lights up with hostile contacts.
 
A lot of the game's quiet-quiet-BOO! tricks appeared in Doom 3, but that game deployed them in a hamfisted, repetitive way, whereas Chernobyl is more subtle. Which is surprising given the chaotic development process.
 
 
On the downside the storyline boils down to grabbing a bunch of meaningless documents, then flicking some switches, then backtracking almost to the beginning of the game, then flicking more switches etc. The actual plot is almost meaningless. It's something about a group of scientists using the cover of the exclusion zone to run mind control experiments, but none of that really matters. There's an underlying quest to find and kill a man called Strelok, which can be completed surprisingly quickly. The game also has a bunch of different endings, depending on the choices the player makes throughout the story, but in practice they're all overridden by the actual true ending, so they're immaterial.
 
But on the upside STALKER is incredibly evocative. One entire level, the Bar, has almost no combat at all, but it's fun to explore, and even though NPC interaction consists of monosyllabic conversations and perfunctory trading the game has a peculiar sense of community spirit. I empathised with these desperate scavengers, even though they aren't real.
 
Alas it falls apart towards the end. In the first few levels there are side-quests and interesting little architectural details that reward exploration and simple side quests, but beyond a certain point the game turns into a straightforward linear shooter.
 
 
 
The Pripyat level is particularly disappointing. It has a detailed recreation of the town, with the general layout shifted about for gameplay purposes, but it's just a shooting gallery. An entire role-playing game could have been set in Pripyat, but the game does nothing with it. The developers created a base for one of the enemy factions, but it's just a side detail that the player never has to visit.



The final battle takes place in and around the power plant. The first part is timed, so the player barely has a chance to see anything. The second part isn't timed, but it's just a series of combat gauntlets. In the game the power plant is a massive complex, whereas in real life it's much smaller, but perhaps in this parallel world an anomaly made the place huge. The detailed background objects are neat, but they're just scenery.
 
 


The game needed one final QA pass. The only remnant of the survival aspect is a vestigial requirement for the player to eat food every now and again. This was carried into the sequels. I don't know why. The player doesn't have to drink, or sleep, or for that matter hunt animals or cook anything. The camp fires are just for show. The player can run around at night in the driving rain just as quickly as they can during the day. They don't feel the cold. Radiation sickness is a minor annoyance immediately cured with medicine.
 
Weapons and armour degrade with use, but there's no way to repair them, at least not without using an exploit. The game has a number of unique, powerful weapons, but I found myself never using them because they would only wear out. Stalkers are drawn to the exclusion zone in order to hunt for rare artefacts, but the game spawns all of the artefacts out in the open at the beginning of the game, so the player doesn't have to hunt for them at all. The system that was supposed to make them spawn over time didn't work, so it was turned off. It wasn't properly fixed until the third game in the series.
 
The maps were cut down to make travel less onerous, but there are still a couple of points where it's easy to jump over the fence surrounding the world, at which point the player ends up trapped in nowhere land.
 
 
The game was finally ported for modern consoles in 2024. The games were given a very mild graphical makeover that mainly improved the look of rainy surfaces. Thankfully the enhanced edition retains the X-Ray engine instead of porting the game to Unreal 5, with X-Ray upgraded to take advantage of 64-bit memory. Some fans have complained that the visuals are now blurry, but I didn't have a problem.
 
Content-wise the enhanced edition removes some references to Soviet iconography. I'm not keen on this, given that the Soviet Union and modern Russia are really two different things, but I'm not going to argue with the people of Ukraine. One of the later levels has a spooky Russian voice in the background that is now a spooky English voice. The original games are still available.
 
 

Games, I said games. As mentioned earlier there were three STALKER games. Shadow of Chernobyl was followed in 2008 by Clear Sky, which was sold at full price as a prequel. This time the player is a chap called Scar, who is asked to track and eventually stop an incautious Stalker from interfering with the Chernobyl plant and possibly triggering an apocalyptic cataclysm.
 
It's a curate's egg. Shadow has a simple faction system whereby various groups battle for control of the exclusion zone. The player can choose to help one or other faction. There's the militaristic Duty, who want to protect the world from deadly anomalies and dangerous mutants etc, plus the anarchistic Freedom, who want to leave the zone open for regular Stalkers, plus bandits who have a loose chain of command, and some scientists who keep themselves to themselves.
 
The player can gain a reputation with one or other faction, but it's a very simple system, and in practice each group remains locked into a certain part of the map and there's no real benefit to helping anyone. The original publicity talked about wide-ranging factional warfare, but this didn't appear until Clear Sky.
 
 
Clear Sky adds a system whereby the player can side with one group and conduct a multi-mission, multi-map war against their immediate rivals. It almost works. The game begins on a large, brand-new map set in a swamp, which is divided into a series of capture-the-flag zones controlled by bandits. It's fun, and surprisingly engaging. The swamp itself feels like a prototype of the larger maps that appear in Call of Pripyat.
 
Unfortunately the rest of the game simply reuses maps from Shadow of Chernobyl, but they're too small to accommodate a war, and in any case the system is buggy. I often found myself advancing ahead of my allies and wiping out the other side, only to end up standing alone in the enemy base, because my colleagues had got stuck at a map boundary. The developers had access to a bunch of large-scale maps cut during development, and it's a shame they didn't dust them off.
 
 
The factional war doesn't stick - the enemy eventually respawns - and the only rewards are some guns and armour, so it feels pointless. Clear Sky is much more action-packed than Shadow, and it finally gives the player the option to maintain and upgrade their kit. The player actually has to hunt for artefacts with a special detector.
 
But it has some of the same problems as the original. The interesting character bits and missions are all packed into the first few levels, and beyond a certain point the game turns into a linear battle that rushes the player through the game. Again it ends with a detailed city map that could have supported multiple quests but is wasted as the backdrop for a series of gunfights, and the final map is a confusing shooting gallery.
 

Clear Sky is generally dismissed as the least interesting game of the trilogy. It's simultaneously a bunch of out-takes from the original game, plus a trial tun for the next game in the series, Call of Pripyat. In the third game the player is Major Degtyarev of the Ukraine military, who is asked to investigate the disappearance of a helicopter task force sent to secure the perimeter of the reactor. Pripyat is unusual in that Ukraine's military is portrayed in a positive light, whereas in the first two games soldiers are the baddies, and the player can slaughter them with impunity.
 
Call of Pripyat had a much better reception than its predecessor. As with Clear Sky it reuses the guns, baddies, suits of armour etc from the first game, but it takes place on three brand-new maps plus a couple of never-before-seen out-takes. The levels are divided into anomaly fields, open space, and important buildings. The game feels much more polished than the other two titles. It has a simpler but more coherent story, told this time with dialogue and cutscenes. The maps are large enough to feel epic, diverse enough to reward exploration, but not so big that they're tedious. The game progresses logically through the three maps, but the player can still return to the earlier parts of the game in order to hunt for artefacts and carry out side quests.
 
There are also some surprisingly, nay legitimately good beginning and ending slides, which are reminiscent of Fallout 3. For a series that is notorious for poor voice acting and unsentimental toughness I found myself warming to Major Degtyarev and the people he met.
 
 
There are two downsides, though. Clear Sky almost entirely eliminated the horror elements of Chornobyl and almost all of the underground laboratories in favour of broad comedy and action. Pripyat brings back some of the tension, but it's nowhere near as scary as the first game. It has its moments, but it feels bland in comparison.
 
And yet again it ends in a detailed recreation of a city that's wasted as the backdrop to a straightforward set of missions culminating in a big fight. It's not as bad as its predecessors in this respect, but playing it again I didn't feel much of an incentive to explore Pripyat itself, and I can barely remember it. While playing it again for this blog post I discovered a surprisingly large basement underneath one of the buildings that I hadn't spotted in all the years I owned the game.
 
For the record it took me 24 hours to finish STALKER, 28 hours to finish Clear Sky - I wanted to give it a fair chance - and 26.2 hours to finish Call of Pripyat, but I knew where everything was and what I had to do, so it'll take you longer. There is a helpful STALKER Wiki, plus an entire site dedicated to Call of Pripyat called The Zone Survival Guide, which has some excellent interactive maps. In a rational world GSC should have bought it up and launched it as an official tips website. The games are available individually or as a trilogy, which is awkward - CoP is Aliens, SoC is Alien, but CS is Back to the Future II - and at least if bought through Steam they come with the original, unaltered versions of each game.
 
 
The games had a huge modding community that still lingers to this day. In my experience most of the mods simply throw in lots of guns, plus some partially-finished monsters, and a bunch of poorly-thought-out survival elements that don't work. Some of them try to turn the game into a big, open-world RPG, but the maps simply aren't large enough and there isn't enough content. One of the most interesting mods, in theory, is Lost Alpha, a standalone title that tries to replicate the pre-intervention version of the game. It has some huge, attractive maps, but there's no A-Life, so it feels dead and empty. The story is uninteresting and the enormous size of the maps makes some of the quests tedious. With a bit more work it might have been salvageable, but the developers game up on it several years ago.
 
And that's STALKER. Have I stood in the shadow of Chernobyl? No, when I visited the reactor it was midday. I have not stood in the shadow of Chernobyl. I think it's a metaphor. There was however a clear sky when I was there. It was surprisingly pleasant for a nuclear wasteland.
 
I did not receive any calls from Pripyat. The dialling code is apparently 4593. The place reminded me of an old science fiction story by Ray Bradbury called "I, Mars". In an abandoned city on Mars the last remaining inhabitant keeps himself mentally active by programming the telephones to call him and play pre-recorded messages. All goes well until one day the telephones start arguing with him. I don't want to spoil the ending, but

Tuesday, 1 January 2019

Chernobyl 3: The Trip

Pripyat, 2018

But what was it like? I've written about Kiev and the explosion, but what was the trip to Chernobyl actually like? You're not supposed to go inside the buildings - they're starting to collapse - but the tour operators generally ignore this rule. I imagine that the fines are tiny and no-one really wants the steady flow of tourist money to dry up. My hunch is that if someone was to die on a tour the authorities would make a show of cracking down, and at least temporarily the tour guides would be out of work.

As a consequence the tour operators aren't keen on people associating their names with interior shots of buildings, so I won't name the tour company I used.



Part of the Duga complex; one of the buildings had a little model of the location.


Step one involves getting to Kyiv. I've already talked about that. London Gatwick, Ukraine International Airlines, pack a flaregun in your luggage in case you need to distract Russian missiles - I learned that trick from Airport '80: The Concorde - then Kiev Boryspil airport, bus to Kyiv, navigate the Kiev Metro, get some food, prices are very low, weather good in October, not much to see in Kyiv but the same is true of Slough or Basingstoke and the entire country of Luxembourg so I have nothing against Kiev.

Step two involves finding the tour bus. A long line of them depart from a spot to the right of the main station, beyond a McDonalds. The tours provide basic food but there's a lot of walking about, although none of it is strenuous. When I went, the outside temperature was 21c. I felt a complete fool for bringing along a big coat, except that the interior of the buildings was freezing cold, because they're open to the elements and haven't been heated since 1986, so at least indoors I was cozy.

Also, I wore proper hiking boots. Because the floor is covered in broken masonry and glass. The Chernobyl exclusion zone is one of the few environments where dressing like an Airsoft enthusiast or a trenchcoat-wearing goth actually makes sense and can be pulled off successfully. You might even get away with a Chinese-style surgical facemask but you'll look like a wally if you wear a full-face gasmask.


For large chunks of the trip I lived inside a Mercedes van. Have you ever been in a van? Vans are awesome. Every trip in a van is an adventure. The exclusion zone is bordered by a series of checkpoints. The one I passed through had a souvenir stall, which was playing some tunes from Fallout 3 - "the roads are the dustiest, the winds are the gustiest" - and I was sorely tempted to point out that they had the wrong fictional universe because the Fallout games are set in a post-nuclear United States. but I kept my trap shut.


You're not supposed to photograph the soldiers at the checkpoint, so I didn't.


Chernobyl in fiction? Glad you asked. One of the strangest aspects of the Chernobyl disaster is that the definitive cinematic depiction of the event was released in 1979, seven years before it happened. In theory this violates causality, but if you think about the entire span of universal time from the Big Bang to the infinite darkness of its eventual heat death, seven years is smaller than a quantum fluctuation, so in that respect causality doesn't matter.

Andrei Tarkovsky's Stalker is one of dozens of films I have downloaded from torrent sites over the years and never got around to watching, although it is by all accounts terrific.

So the story goes, this river was so polluted from the chemical plant in the background that several of the cast and crew developed given life-threatening illnesses - lead actor Anatoly Solonitsyn and director Andrei Tarkovsky both died of cancer within a few years, Solonitsyn in 1982 and Tarkovsky in 1986.

In the book she's called Monkey. You can't get away with that nowadays.

Stalker was shot in Estonia. It's one of those arty European films where nothing happens but the interior decor is fantastic and all the women are thin and beautiful. It's very loosely based on Roadside Picnic, a Russian science fiction novella written by Arkady and Boris Strugatsky in the early 1970s.

I've read Roadside Picnic. I actually bothered to read it. I finished reading it on the plane to Kyiv. It's a short book, and as with a lot of old-fashioned sci-fi it's more an exploration of a setting than a proper story, but I enjoyed it. The characters communicate by shouting at each other and smoking, so I mentally imagined the whole thing as an episode of The Sweeney but in Eastern Europe.


The writers had a hard time with Soviet-era censorship, which explains why the main character spends so long moaning about capitalism. All of the characters have nicknames; the businessman who funds the hero's lifestyle is called Vulture. At heart Roadside Picnic is a Western, one of those Westerns where the Wild West is being tamed by the railroad, although in this case the wild west is a set of mysterious zones filled with alien artefacts that people are prepared to risk life and limb to retrieve and the trains are automatic drones that can navigate the hazards.

Our hero is a man, a wily man on the edge of the law somewhat akin to Harry Harrison's Stainless Steel Rat. In chapter one he is in the process of going straight, but something goes wrong; he finds himself unable to readjust to his former life of crime and eventually embarks on a desperate mission to give his life meaning.


Roadside Picnic doesn't take long to read. The plot could be condensed into one of those 1970s television plays. There's an odd stylistic device whereby the first chapter is first-person, the second is third-person, the next chapter is first-person but with a different lead character, etc, which I assumed was leading to something but apparently not. It's not quite a classic but it has stayed with me, and the fictional universe it depicts is fascinating.

In the mid-2000s the book was mined for inspiration by Kiev-based developers GSC Game World for their STALKER games, which is where I come in, because my interest in Chernobyl comes from those games.


I wore proper boots, shown here encrusted with two whole days of invisible death.

STALKER, the game, is set in a parallel world similar to our own; a second Chernobyl disaster, even worse than the first, has altered the laws of physics in a zone surrounding the reactor, and your job is to reach the power plant and find your destiny. There were three STALKER games, the horror shoot-em-up STALKER: Shadow of Chernobyl (2007), the half-assed capture-the-flag asset-mining prequel STALKER: Clear Sky (2008), and the much-better-but-relatively-bland STALKER: Call of Pripyat (2009). The first has a terrific doom-laden atmosphere, the last is conventional action game with mild role playing and sandbox adventure elements but lacks the first game’s nightmarish qualities. If you can only afford two of them, buy the first and last.

The STALKER games were ambitious but full of bugs, with occasionally ropey dialogue and an unpolished feel, but the bits that worked were extremely effective. The day-night cycle, the artificially intelligent bands of roving mutants that made every location feel alive, the oppressive atmosphere, the rough but evocative graphics, etc. Development was protracted and in the end the team had to cut out a lot of content to get the game finished, but modders have added in some of the cut elements - sadly there isn't enough content to turn Shadow of Chernobyl into a true open-ended sandbox game, but with mods it becomes a fascinating free-form adventure RPG, simpler than Fallout but with more atmosphere. Unlike Fallout the STALKER games are deadly serious; Fallout is basically a spoof that tonally feels like a throwback to the 1990s, when for a brief time it was hip to laugh at the 1950s. I'm not going to write any more about Fallout.

The STALKER games sold well and, along with Half-Life 2 and Good-Bye Lenin, channelled a post-Soviet, Eastern European aesthetic that was very fashionable in the mid-2000s. If I had done a media studies degree in the mid-2000s I would have been sorely tempted to use STALKER as an example of post-Soviet angst. Life in a capitalist society is like a forced labour camp; inside the camp people are compelled to work until they die for unseen masters, but outside there is only a thousand miles of permafrost and wolves. Imagine escaping, and walking in a straight line, endlessly, only to finally encounter the same camp but from the other side, etc.





Taken from STALKER: Lost Alpha, a mod that gives the game a visual polish but turns the storyline into a meandering mess.

STALKER is loosely modelled on real-life locations in the exclusion zone. Being based in Kyiv meant that the developers could actually visit the zone, as detailed in one of their work-in-progress reports. Nonetheless they took artistic liberties with the geography. Although individual buildings are accurate, the scale is generally larger than real life (the real Chernobyl power plant is smaller than the version in STALKER) and the geography of the area is fictional.


In the game Pripyat is south of the Chernobyl power plant whereas in reality it's to the West, and the streets of Pripyat aren't connected in the same way. Furthermore the real-life town of Pripyat doesn't have Monolith snipers or electro anomalies, and not once was I attacked by a helicopter gunship. STALKER is an acronym by the way. It stands for Scavengers, Thieves, something beginning with A, Looters? Killers? Whatever. Technically it's S.T.A.L.K.E.R. but I'm not typing that.


My group visited Pripyat in the morning. If you're willing to pay, and willing to visit in the dead of winter, or willing to visit under the radar, you could visit at night; this particular building is often photographed at night because it looks attractive when illuminated from within.

The tour operators have a mixture of one-day, two-day, and multi-day tours. One day isn't enough unless you're just ticking a box or the trip is free; more than two days is too much unless you're shooting a photo-book, which as mentioned in the first post in this series is a hard sell in 2018 because Chernobyl and Pripyat are mined-out. It has been filmed with drones, photographed at night, in infrared, timelapse, gigapans, HDR, you name it. I am possibly the first person to shoot Pripyat with an Olympus Pen F but who cares?

On day one my group visited the area around Chernobyl, the outside of the reactor, plus the Duga radar complex and its surroundings. The radar complex includes a complete small housing / agricultural complex which if anything is more atmospheric than Pripyat on account of the military detritus, and looking through my photographs I'm starting to forget which ones were shot in Pripyat and which were shot at the Duga complex. For lunch we popped off to the workers' cafe, where I sat down and photographed my meal:


At the end of day one we went to one of the few hotels in the area, although it's more of a hostel. Chernobyl town is dark at night because most of it is deserted and there's a curfew from 20:00 onwards. The buildings are mostly in good shape so it looks like a town that has been freshly-deserted. The stray dogs were happy to see us. None of them tried to bite off my face. None of them split open and fired tentacles at me a la The Thing.

The hotel has nothing. There's nothing to do except sit outside and read. The hotel doesn't have single rooms, so I had to share with a Ukranian man who was also on the tour. I know from the internet that European men kiss each other in a non-sexual way so I was prepared for that kind of thing but for whatever reason he never offered to kiss me. Am I really that unattractive? There were separate beds. And wifi.

Was the wifi strong enough for Pornhub? I didn't find out; what if the authorities were monitoring my activity? Given the fact that 90% of the population of Chernobyl are male security guards and plant operators, and that there's literally no nightlife, I imagine that the majority of Chernobyl's internet traffic is Pornhub. Oddly AR15.com seemed to be blocked in Ukraine; given the current situation you'd think they would want more guns, not fewer guns.

Day two majored on Pripyat, followed by lunch, then Chernobyl's unfinished Reactor Five:




Photography tip: I took a pair of Olympus Pen F film cameras. They're half-frame so I didn't have to change rolls very often. They are manual-everything, so the only electricity I needed was for my lightmeter, which doesn't use much. I was curious to see if the latent radiation would have any effect on the film (as expected, it didn't; presumably it would have been a general fogging rather than dramatic lighting bolts).



However most of the interior photographs were taken with my mobile phone. There simply isn't enough light for available-light photography with film. It doesn't matter how hard you push the film, or how fast the lenses, or how steady your hands; film just isn't fast enough, and it's not practical to use a tripod, because you're not supposed to rest anything on the ground.

If you're dead set on using film my suggestion is that you bring a flash, and either practice flash metering beforehand, or cheat and use a 1990s film SLR with automatic flash metering. A Canon EOS 3 with a 550EX would be perfect. Alternatively buy a second-hand Nikon D3s and run the photos through a film simulation filter. I won't tell. No-one need ever know.

Day two ended with another trip to the Duga complex. There was a suggestion of meeting some of the people who live in the zone, but the thought of smiling awkwardly at a bunch of Ukranian pensioners who are probably thoroughly sick of people treating them like circus animals didn't appeal to anyone in the group so we skipped that. STALKER: Call of Pripyat has a section that takes place in an abandoned tape factory, which is to the north of the exclusion zone, but as before I kept my mouth shut because I didn't want anybody to think that I was a nerd so my once-in-a-lifetime chance to explore an abandoned Soviet-era tape factory evaporated.

Why once-in-a-lifetime? The exclusion zone is starting to succumb to the elements, but beyond that Ukraine is slowly being swallowed up by Russia. We aren't going to start a Third World War to defend Ukraine's independence. It'll be an awkward few years before people can visit Chernobyl again, and it won't feel right.




At the conclusion of day two we drove back to Kiev, through the same checkpoint. We all queued up for hot dogs from a roadside stand. Ukranian hot dogs are awesome. They aren't like British hot dogs, they're French-style. Instead of cutting a slice into the bun they drill a hole through the middle, then squirt mustard and ketchup into the hole, then in goes the sausage. If you grew up on a farm or spent time around horses it's not a million miles removed from the thing whereby daddy horse really loves mummy horse a lot.

After returning to my hotel in Kyiv I photographed my boots, took off my boots, had a shower, and wondered what to do next. Should I wash my boots, or leave them dirty so that they look cool?

As with Venice, Chernobyl is one of those ne plus ultra things that is at the top of its field. What next? Unlike most blogs that have survived for more than a handful of posts I am entirely self-funded; I'm not married to a wealthy executive at Google or a major bank etc, so I can't sponge off them; I don't have looks or age on my side. As I drifted to sleep I was once again struck by the melancholy of a battle won.